Home Improvement Advice for Flooring

Laminates Do it Yourself Tips for Flooring

Laminates are not exactly 'wood', but a special photographed process! The base is made up of HDF (high density fibre) board, with a reinforced layer adhered to this. Upon this reinforced layer is the finished surface, put through a special process, rather like that of 'Formica'. The photographic qualities of an individual wood grain are etched onto the surface, then a strong wear layer is processed over this.

This amounts to a very strong floor, that can be matched or complimented to many decor. All laminates are manufactured with a tongue and grooved finish to the edges. This facilitates easy fitting, each joint being glued together to form a continuous 'sheet'.

Floating Wood Installation

For Best Results:

Subfloor Preparation:

Subfloor must be clean, dry and level.Remove any existing skirting or trim.

1. Install Foam/Rubber Underlayment:

Cover subfloor with foam underlayment. Do not overlap sheets. If subfloor is concrete, you should ideally, cover the whole area with Pvc sheeting, or similar, then tape the seams with 2-inch wide tape. For all other subfloors, do not tape seams.

2. Install First Row:

Inspect each piece prior to installation for damaged boards. Lay first row of boards with groove side facing the wall. If the starting wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of planks and trim as needed. Saw off the bottom part of the groove in the first row if starting with a full board. Put spacers around the entire perimeter of the room to maintain 1/4" expansion zone. Lay pieces from left to right. Slide each to the left and lock short end into place. Gently use tapping block to tap short ends of boards together. When measuring the last piece in the row, subtract 1/4" from end of board to maintain expansion zone. Cut decorative side up if using hand saw or decorative side down if using power saw to minimize chipping. When you are happy that this first row is square, dismantle and glue together, wiping away excess glue with a clean damp cloth. Use a pull bar to get the last piece into place. If the cut-off piece from the first row is 12" or longer, use it to start the second row. If it is less than 12", cut a full board in half and use that.

3. Install Remaining Rows:

Continue laying boards, one row at a time and staggering the end joints. Run a bead of glue along the TOP of the tongue, not into the groove, as excess glue will force the boards apart! Install each subsequent piece by inserting long end at an angle to the piece already laid. With lightly applied pressure, push down on the board until it "locks" into place. Secure long ends of the board first, then slide board to the left to lock short end into place. Use a pull bar and tapping block when necessary to ensure joints are tight. (Place the solid side of tapping block against tongue of boards and tap with hammer on groove side of tapping block.) Then wipe away excess glue. Follow the order described above to continue laying the pieces and locking them together. Tap gently into place with tapping block.

4. Install Mouldings and Transition Strips:

Remove spacers and install finish mouldings. Attach mouldings and transition strips with nails, screws or construction adhesive. Predrill mouldings and transition strips prior to nailing or screwing. Never fasten the transition pieces or mouldings to the flooring itself, this will cause the floor to 'lock' against the wall, resulting in a tightening of the whole area, and always maintain 1/4" expansion zone.